CLIMBING LENIN PEAK 7,134 meters ASL (23,406 feet)
Price
3.000 USD
Upcoming trip
→ July 30 – August 18, 2024
→ July 1 – 20, 2025
→ July 21 – August 9, 2025
→ August 10 – 29, 2025
→ July 1 – 20, 2025
→ July 21 – August 9, 2025
→ August 10 – 29, 2025
Group size
9
Duration
20 days
Lenin Peak is a trial for the strong in spirit. Some say that this mountain is not more difficult than Elbrus, but this is not at all true. Everything you have heard about high-altitude alpinism completely applies to this mountain. Yes, technically, the climbing is not difficult at all. But climbers will have to climb to a height above 7000 meters, and this is not a joke.
You will need to walk a lot, stay overnight at high altitude and collect all the power, especially psychological, to reach your goal and descend.
You will need to walk a lot, stay overnight at high altitude and collect all the power, especially psychological, to reach your goal and descend.
Good physical condition is required
Altitude difficulty
Technical difficulty
Autonomy
Acclimatization in the Camp 1
The second day of preparation for the ascent: today we will have to adjust the equipment and train to work with it in rough conditions. Training on the glacier, ice exercises, moving in on the glacier in teams, jumaring and rappell railings. Our guides will double-check your skills and fill in any gaps if necessary. Porters also work at Lenin Peak, and if you want to send part of your cargo higher, you will need to prepare everything today. Public equipment and high-altitude food will be provided in advance.
Day 5
Acclimatization trip to Yukhin Peak
Camp 1 is located at the altitude of 4400 meters. This is where the trek to the mountain ends and mountaineering begins: the only way higher is with crampons! But before we go higher, we should acclimatize well, and for this, today we will take the first peak on our way! After breakfast we go to Yukhin Peak! Height 5200, no additional equipment is required. Depending on the condition and preparation of the group, a decision will be made about staying overnight on the Yukhin Peak.
Day 4
PROGRAM:
On this day we will move to the Base Camp of Lenin Peak. Finally the mountains! The whole group will gather near our minibuses no later than at 9 am. 5-6 hours of scenic road, and we are crossing the Chon-Alai Valley and driving straight into the base camp. Here we part with the cars, because this is where the active part of our expedition begins. Accommodation at comfortable large tents with electricity (double occcupancy). Three meals a day are provided, and there is also a bathhouse at the base camp “Topol camp”. We will take a walk to the so-called “Onion Glade” after lunch.
Transfer to the Base Camp
Day 1
Acclimatization hike to the Traveller's Pass
An altitude of 3600 is not a joke, especially if you come from the sea level. Therefore, today we are making a radial exit (we leave the camp in the morning and return to it in the evening) to the Puteshestvenikov Pass. We will gain a height of 4200 meters and at the same time get acquainted with the trail to the Camp 1, where we will go the next day. In the evening we prepare the cargo for horse transport.
Day 2
Camp 1
This is a very picturesque trek along a beaten path. The horses with our cargo will follow the same path. The Puteshestvenikov Pass, 4100 meters high, awaits us in the first part of the trek, and right after the pass there is a convenient meadow for relaxation, where marmots, its permanent residents, like to bask. We spend the night in the Camp 1. The conditions are the same as in the base camp.
Day 3
Camp 1 to Camp 2
Early start! Today we’re facing a difficult transition from the Camp 1 to the Camp 2. This transition is believed to be the most dangerous and technical part of the climbing Lenin Peak. We will find many cracks, crossing snow bridges, metal stairs and rope railings on the way. Just closer to the Camp 2 we will enter the famous “frying pan”: a huge circus covered with snow. The energy of the sun is accumulated here in such a way even in a cloudy weather, that the heat literally drives you crazy. That is why our task is to get into tents as quickly as possible before the coming heat. Upon arrival at the Camp 2, we accommodate in the assault tents in teams of 2 or 3 people, and prepare water and food ourselves.
Day 6
Camp 2 to Camp 3
Early awakening, early start. Today we have a grueling trek to the assault camp located under the Razdelnaya peak. This transition is not difficult technically, but due to the height it won’t be simple. We stay overnight in the tents. It will be a difficult night at the altitude. Depending on the condition of the group, the guides may decide not to spend the night in the Camp 3.
Day 7
Camp 3 to Camp 1
Our preparation for the ascent is completed yet! Now the task is to descend to the base camp for a rest as quickly and carefully as possible. We will leave at dawn. First, we descend along the already familiar slope to the Camp 2, then we descend to the Camp 1 through the cracks, meeting the ascending climbers. We will already be in the Camp 1 by lunchtime, and after lunch we lightly go to the base camp. How easy it is to go down!
Day 8
Rest day in Base Camp
A full day of rest at the base camp! All movements will be from the tent to the dining room and back. Well, or you can go to a local bar)
Day 9
Rest day in Base Camp
One more day of the rest. Plan is the same.
Day 10
Base Camp to Camp 1
We climb up along the already familiar trail. This ascent will not be noticeable after acclimatization and rest. If you wish, you can send something on horseback.
Day 11
Camp 1 to Camp 2
Early departure again. Transition from the Camp 1 to the Camp 2. The trail is already familiar.
Day 12
Camp 2 to Camp 3
The climbing to the Camp 3 no longer seems as insurmountable as it did the first time. Nevertheless, we are in no hurry to save strength for the final push to the top.
Day 13
Summit assault and descent to the Camp 2
We depart at night! We get dressed everything warm and take a drink. We have a very long day ahead of us. After leaving the camp there is a gentle descent to the saddle. Then the trail zigzags up to an altitude of 6400. Then we approach the “knife” with a very smooth climb: a steep snow ridge. We carefully belay ourselves to the suspended ropes and go out onto the skydivers’ plateau. You will even be able to see the top, if the weather is good, but don’t be fooled – it’s still a long way off. The steps begin after the plateau: only after going through them all, you can reach the top!
The ascent to the top takes 9-12 hours, half the time is spent for descending to the Camp 3. If we have any strength left, we will not linger in the Camp 3 and will immediately descend to the Camp 2 - it will be much more pleasant to rest there after a grueling trek.
The ascent to the top takes 9-12 hours, half the time is spent for descending to the Camp 3. If we have any strength left, we will not linger in the Camp 3 and will immediately descend to the Camp 2 - it will be much more pleasant to rest there after a grueling trek.
Day 14
Camp 2 to Camp 1 and to Base Camp
We descend to the Camp 1, pack our things and prepare to leave for the Base Camp. All your equipment can be sent down on horseback.
Day 15
Spare days
The weather can be unpredictable in the high mountains. We definitely need spare days if nature is unfavorable for some time.
Days 16-19
Departure from the Base Camp
Minibuses will pick us up after breakfast. An hour along a dusty dirt road, another 4 hours on asphalt left to the city of Osh and the hotel. Our expedition is over.
Day 20
- Transfer from Osh city to the base camp and back;
- Passes to the natural park and border zone;
- Assistance in choosing health insurance;
- Public equipment (ropes, drills, pitons);
- Accommodation at tents of camps 2 and 3 (double occupancy);
- Gas, burner and utensils for cooking in the upper camps;
- Light meal kits (sublimate meals) for the upper camps;
- Set of snacks;
- Accommodation at camping tents in the base camp and camp 1 (double occupancy). The tents have mattresses, lights and electricity. Single occupancy is available for an additional fee;
- Three hot meals a day in the base camp and camp1;
- Work of a guide from the Mountain Portal team throughout the expedition;
- Training program to prepare for the expedition. Personal accompaniment of a guide upon request, at an additional cost;
- Usage of toilet, shower, dining room, storage room;
- Hot shower at the base camp and camp 1. Bathhouse at the base camp;
- Group radio communication;
- Public emergency first aid kit;
- Accommodation at a hotel in Osh after the expedition for 1 night.
- International flight and baggage excess
- Additional costs due to deviations from the plan
- Transportation of personal cargo (equipment, clothes, food):
1 camp – 2 camp 12 USD /1kg
2 camp – 3 camp 10 USD /1kg
- All additional services and drinks in the camps
- Extra snacks
- Personal first aid kit
- Personal medical insurance for the duration of the expedition is required (we will help you choose the best option)
- Helmet
- Carabiners 3pcs
- Harness/seat harness
- Jumar
- Ice ax
- Lanyard mustache
- Descender
- Crampons
- Double or triple climbing boots
- Trekking sneakers or boots
- Crocs slippers
- Underwear
- Thermal underwear 2 sets or more, preferably light. If you don’t have a light one, then you can take a regular white T-shirt or shirt so that the sun doesn’t heat you
- Trekking lightweight socks 2 pairs
- Warm trekking socks 2 pairs
- Bandana buff 2 pcs
- Cap or Panama hat, preferably light
- Fleece jacket and pants
- Verkhonki (large warm mittens)
- Storm suit: jacket + pants
- Thin gloves 2 pairs
- Warm pants or down overalls (optional)
- Large warm expedition down parka
- Trekking pants or leggings
- Thermos 1 liter
- Bottle 0.5 or more
- Mug
- Spoon
- Plate
- Sun cream 50SPF or more
- Biodegradable wet wipes
- Toilet paper 2 rolls
- Lipstick or balm with sun protection
- Toothpaste, brush
- Soap, shampoo
- Towel
- Sleeping bag, limit at -30 or lower
- Assault Light Backpack
- Bag for transporting things
- Mat (karemat)
- Trekking poles
- Bags for garbage and dirty things
- Personal first aid kit
- Sunscreen no less than SPF+50 protection and SPF lipstick;
- Prescription medication if needed
- Heel blister patches and blister prevention tape
- Anti-diarrheal, constipation and indigestion relief. (Like Smecta, Mezym forte, Pepto Bismol, Imodium, Espumizan, etc.)
- Ibuprofen or Nurofen (ibuprofen relieves inflammation and works well for headaches at high altitude)
- Aspirin
- Sleeping pills or valerian root tea (it is common to have trouble sleeping at high altitude)
- Throat lozenges
- Ascorbic acid, glucose, vitamin C effervescent 1000 mg
- Diacarb (1 tablet for every day at high altitude)
- Amber acid
- Sterile bandage
- Infection protection, healing ointment for sores (e.g. Bepanthen, etc.).
Take a course of vitamins and minerals. If possible, get tested and make up for deficiencies, if any.
A dental check-up is a must, prior to the trip. It is important to get any problem teeth fixed. At high altitude, any chronic issues may escalate and cause trip cancellation.
You can also take Meldonium/Mildronate (500 mg.) to increase physical endurance. 500 mg 2 times a day (morning only), for a week before the trip. Continue while at high altitude, 500 mg 2 times a day.
Hypoxen helps acclimatization and increases oxygen assimilation at high altitude. To be taken at 4 000 meters ASL and higher.
A dental check-up is a must, prior to the trip. It is important to get any problem teeth fixed. At high altitude, any chronic issues may escalate and cause trip cancellation.
You can also take Meldonium/Mildronate (500 mg.) to increase physical endurance. 500 mg 2 times a day (morning only), for a week before the trip. Continue while at high altitude, 500 mg 2 times a day.
Hypoxen helps acclimatization and increases oxygen assimilation at high altitude. To be taken at 4 000 meters ASL and higher.
Three hot meals a day are provided at the base camp and camp 1. There is a separate yurt-dining room. Water, hot tea, coffee, and sweets are always available. Drinks can be purchased for an additional cost.
In high-altitude camps, light meals are provided - sublimates. Cooking at altitude will take place in tents on burners by the participants. Burners, gas and sublimates will be given to you by guides on the route.
Please inform us in advance about the desired type of food (meat, vegetarian) or the specifics of your diet (intolerance to gluten, milk, eggs, etc.) We can organize meals for you.
High altitude nutrition (sublimate meals) will also be agreed with the group.
In high-altitude camps, light meals are provided - sublimates. Cooking at altitude will take place in tents on burners by the participants. Burners, gas and sublimates will be given to you by guides on the route.
Please inform us in advance about the desired type of food (meat, vegetarian) or the specifics of your diet (intolerance to gluten, milk, eggs, etc.) We can organize meals for you.
High altitude nutrition (sublimate meals) will also be agreed with the group.
Make sure your travel insurance is specifically for adventure activities and includes a helicopter evacuation.
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